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From the author
A Venetian Portrait
One of the enduring mysteries in my childhood memories is how my father,
during our annual pilgrimage to Venice, maintained an almost photographically
precise map of La Serenissima in his head. This city is notorious
for confusing even the most directionally savvy travelers, but the rest
of our family could always count on following my father as he unerringly
led us home after a day's wandering through the maze of narrow streets.
Thirty-two years after our last family expedition to Venice, I arranged
to meet my father there again. We weren't quite as successful in remaining
unlost, and our sense of adventure was elevated even further by our wildly
eccentric landlady, not to mention what my father found beneath his bed.
Borders & Bridges
During an otherwise moribund November years ago, I spent a week smuggling
literature behind the Iron Curtain. Memories of the Curtain itself are,
for most people, quickly fading, but I wanted to vividly preserve one of
my experiences of it. The tension and suspense of the trip were increased
by the daredevil behavior of my young Norwegian co-driver. But I learned
how to dump groceries from a speeding van in a rainstorm while being attacked
by a 6-foot-long piece of cheese.
Lock & Key
I usually don't plan details of my trips in advance. My only goal for
this trip was to spend a week in a small isolated place where I had never
been before. So I became a temporary fixture in the tiny fishing village
of Tobermory on the medium-sized island of Mull off the very long western
coast of Scotland. I found out why the ferry's compass always quit working
part way across the water; I walked over Macbeth's grave without knowing
it, discovered someone speaking from her grave in the present tense, and
ate breakfast every morning with Horace the Seagull.
Self-Portrait with Friends
For almost two years I lived in a castle in Bavaria. On one fine spring
day I unexpectedly became a father to two baby birds. My attempts to feed
them, learn their language and teach them to fly were as challenging to
them as to me. My picture of them sitting on my boots has sold well in
exhibits; it's included in the chapter.
Angels in Augsburg
What do you do when your car quits running late at night in a strange
foreign city and two large strangers confront you on the street? You do
anything they say, of course, even if you can't understand them. But what
was their real motive? How did they know what we would find in the demolished
town square? And how many people does it take to turn over a car? These
and many other even more obscure questions are answered in this chapter.
Four Short Scenes
Brief diversions in unusual places a cottage smaller than your grandmother's
attic on Portland Island off the southern coast of England; a week in
Lugano, Switzerland, where palm trees and pine trees both sway over the
tables at outdoor cafés beside alpine lakes, the shortest day ever
spent in Paris, and attending a funeral with a million other people. Among
other esoterica, learn why every resident of Portland Island had at least
one sewing machine at a time when such machines were still very rare and
expensive. And enjoy the mystery (but not solve it) of the Singing Tree.
Tram 27
I spent most of my growing-up years in Germany. One of my trips to Munich
awakened many memories of that halcyon childhood on the Rhine River and
merged them with adventures in modern Bavaria. Learn how some people avoided
traffic jams by driving cars into the river, and exactly when it was permissable
and expected to bribe an on-duty traffic policeman with
liquor.
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A Venetian Portrait
Languishing in the lagoon, with an unexpected proposal
Venice
Borders & Bridges
An American and a Norwegian crash the Iron Curtain in a Fiat and add new
meaning to fast food.
Hungary
Lock & Key
Loch & quay, and the disappearing apostle
Scotland
Self-Portrait with Friends
Improvising flying lessons for two naturals
Germany
A Midsummer Meditation
A study in silence
England
Through the Puddles to the Door
A short walk in Dorset, with a four-minute, one-act play included at no
extra charge
England
Angels in Augsburg
A nocturnal narrative about being in the right place at the right time
Germany
Four Short Scenes
An island, two cities and a funeral
England, Switzerland, France
Tram 27
Going home
Germany
Colophon
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